L'ÉTERNEL
COUTURIER

SEPTEMBER 2025

Balmain celebrates its 80th Anniversary with a four-act program of special events

BALMAIN marks its 80th Anniversary with a four-act celebration, weaving the House’s heritage and its ‘present future’ into an ever-evolving vision of beauty and inspiration—rooted in boundless creativity, meaningful connections, and fashion’s role in contemporary society.

Transcending temporal boundaries through Pierre Balmain's perpetual resonance, the Maison’s storied legacy and refined aesthetics inspire a unique series of events and initiatives running from September 4 through year’s end. These will unfold across multiple narratives—from an exclusive heritage exhibition in New York to community exchanges and an on-screen tribute to the eternal couturier.

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80 years ago, Balmain presented its first show, a milestone that set the Maison on a path of timeless elegance and audacious creativity, unveiled through this very invitation.

At the heart of the program lies the guiding ethos of a French Maison that has spanned the globe, navigating eight decades of history, cultural revolutions, and societal shifts while remaining modern, relevant, and true to Monsieur Balmain’s daring spirit—a fusion of Parisian flair, bold sophistication, and couture innovation.
This will be a pivotal moment to delve deeper into the essence of the House: an invitation to explore the founder’s visionary genius, his dreams, and his avant-garde lexicon of femininity, while unveiling archival treasures and visual stories never before revealed.

ONE NIGHT,
EIGHT DECADES: EXCLUSIVE NEW YORK EXHIBITION 

This immersive journey spotlights the House’s defining pillars and signatures, from 1945 to today, finding its rightful home in New York: the city that, together with Paris, shaped Pierre Balmain’s pioneering vision and the House’s ever-evolving identity.

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PARIS–NEW YORK: A TRANSATLANTIC VISION

Explores Pierre Balmain’s profound bond with New York, sparked by his first visit in 1946 shortly after opening his Paris atelier. Captivated by the city’s vibrant energy, he returned frequently - not only as a couturier but also as an “ambassador of French civilization” - delivering lectures across America and cultivating relationships with intellectuals and celebrities like Gertrude Stein, Josephine Baker, and Juliette Gréco. Here, in 1970, he opened his first boutique on Madison Avenue, where fifty years later the Maison will return with a new flagship store under Creative Director Olivier Rousteing.

ETERNAL FORMS: THE ARCHITECTURE OF MOVEMENT

Highlights architecture as Pierre Balmain’s primary inspiration. His early studies began at the École des Beaux-Arts in 1933, though his passion for fashion led him to an apprenticeship at Molyneux couture house - forging a dual expertise that shaped his philosophy for 50 years. Declaring “Dressmaking is the architecture of movement”, he infused designs with bold lines, intricate cuts, and structured silhouettes reminiscent of arches, pyramids, and “the geometric center of the dresses.”

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THE BALMAIN ICONIC JACKET: 1945 TO TODAY

Traces the evolution of the tailored jacket, which debuted in Pierre Balmain’s inaugural 1945 collection and remains a timeless icon. Inspired by Breton sailors’ uniforms, the couturier recoded functional elegance through audacious tailoring. Sculpted shoulders and nipped waists defined his signature “Jolie Madame” silhouette, rocketing the six-button jacket to instant fame. Over decades, the Balmain Jacket evolved into a symbol of empowered style and aesthetic continuity.

GILDED SIGNATURES: THE RADIANCE OF GOLD

Highlights the House’s legacy tied to royalty and artistry, recalling Pierre Balmain’s exquisite use of gold since the 1940s. More than decoration, gold embodied a post-war cultural rebirth - symbolizing optimism and permanence. From lavish maxi chains to gold-buttoned jackets evoking military prestige, and Olivier Rousteing’s latest crocodile-embossed 3D dress, each gilded piece reflects the Maison’s bold, opulent craft.

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THE LABYRINTH LEGACY: BALMAIN’S PB MONOGRAM

Showcases the Balmain "Labyrinth" monogram—interlocking P and B initials multiplied into an emblem of the House’s bold identity. Introduced in 1970, the pattern reflected Pierre Balmain’s passion for French châteaux, classical architecture, and the beauty of Italian Renaissance gardens. Adorning bags and ready-to-wear, it became a signature, most notably dominating the Summer 1971 Haute Couture collection.

CRAFTING ORNAMENT: AN EMBROIDERED LEGACY

Reveals embroidery as Balmain’s language of identity and craftsmanship—the purest essence of haute couture and one of the most accomplished expressions of the House's artistry and savoir-faire. Pierre Balmain’s inspirations ranged from sea pearls to floral garlands and baroque foliage. These embroidered surfaces epitomize the Houses’ couture heritage and audacious modernity, blurring the line between garment and artwork, tradition and innovation.

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A SYMPHONY OF STYLE: POP CULTURE ICONS

Unveils Pierre Balmain’s iconic costumes and inspiration from trailblazing women whose bold artistry reshaped culture and redefined femininity. He dressed magnetic figures like Brigitte Bardot (The Bride Is Much Too Beautiful) and Vivien Leigh (The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone), alongside Katharine Hepburn, Cyd Charisse, Sophia Loren, and Joan Fontaine. Today, the House continues dressing and drawing energy from a new generation of music and pop culture icons who, like their predecessors, defy conventions and set new rules.

PARIS: EPICENTER OF THE NEW FRENCH STYLE

Illustrates Pierre Balmain’s lifelong love affair with Paris, which began in his youth through fashion magazines. Arriving in 1933 as an architecture student, he embraced the city as a place of freedom, opportunity and transformative cultural encounters. Postwar, Balmain was among the first to open a couture house (1945). His “New French Style” and “Jolie Madame” silhouette drew inspiration from Parisian landmarks and their quintessential figures of elegance: Les Parisiennes.

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FEMMES DE LÉGENDE: BOLD MUSES IN THE HOUSE OF BALMAIN

Celebrates the bold, visionary women who influenced Pierre Balmain’s worldview and inspired his creative ethos- from courageous, chic mother to intellectuals like Gertrude Stein and Alice Toklas; to rule-breakers he dressed in confident refinement; and to queens and princesses navigating tradition and modernity. With each creation, the designer honored the courage, determination, and inherent poise of the formidable women who shaped his world and changed the world itself.

CREDITS:

A SYMPHONY OF STYLE: POP CULTURE ICONS

Josephine Baker wearing a draped gold lamé gown designed by Pierre Balmain for her 1951 Tour © akg images / ullstein bild
 

Singer Dalida wearing an iconic white dress designed by Pierre Balmain, on stage at the Olympia in Paris in 1974. © Keystone-France / Gamma Photo

Katharine Hepburn wearing a custom embroidered Balmain gown on the set of “The Millionairess” by Bernard Shaw in 1950. Photograph by Angus Mc Bean © Houghton Library, Harvard University

Singer Juliette Greco wearing a gold lamé sheath dress with deep neckline, designed by Pierre Balmain for her 1952 performance at the April in Paris ball in New York. © Roger-Viollet

Brigitte Bardot and Pierre Balmain in 1956. The actress wears a draped tulle dress with silk petals embroidery. © AGIP / Bridgeman Images

Actress Vivien Leigh dressed in Balmain in the movie "The Roman Spring of Mrs Stone" by Warren Beatty, 1960 © Collection Klap / akg-images © Seven Art / Warner Bros


FEMMES DE LÉGENDE 

Françoise Balmain, Mother of Pierre Balmain, entrepreneur and director of her own couture boutique during the 1930’s © Balmain Heritage